Bounding Onward!

Since yesterday I’ve done a fair bit more to the 2P including the difficult task of getting the firebox mounted.
This also meant that I had to shim the smokebox saddle up by 1.75mm to maintain the correct pitch of the boiler. It was then I realised that I also had to somehow reproduce the channel in which the reversing lever is situated. In the end a very rudimentary process was used which involved scribing the boundary of the recess, using the splasher as a guide.
A series of holes were then drilled and opened out into a slot, being cleaned up by needle file.
A backing piece was then attached from inside, made from scrap. It’s a bit crude but when the reverser arm’s in place it shouldn’t be noticeable to any meaningful degree.

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Having sorted all that out, I then tackled the buffer beam and attached the dome.
I’m still looking for a suitable chimney casting and this dome isn’t perfect so I may yet replace it. There’s no denying it, though, the model is beginning to look rather like its intended subject.>

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About maxstafford60093

Scotsman in exile. Lover of Scotland's railways, land, people and culture. Always got an ear for new and interesting music. Politically of the left and most definitely repelled by the shallow and narcissistic. An unlikely jazz-cat mod rocker with punk tendencies; a bit 1968, a bit 1977 with a distracting overdub of 1958... Most often found outdoors with my four legged buddy!
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4 Responses to Bounding Onward!

  1. sed30 says:

    You make it look so easy!

    • Funnily enough, so far it’s been easier than a cast kit. The basic nickel silver construction is surprisingly forgiving and allows you a lot of leeway in dealing with any problems.

  2. Adrian Dyer says:

    I use a chisel shaped Exacto knife blade to scrape away excess solder then rub down with a glass brush. I use only Fry’s Powerflow flux because it is very soluble in water. But wash of IMMEDIATELY after finishing work in hot or soapy water to avoid corrosion. It use an little ultrasonic bath (Maplins sell them) to do the final clean up before painting. It’s staggering what dirt comes away from a apparently clean model! Keep going!

    • Thanks for the advice Adrian, it is appreciated. I’ll be looking into acquiring an ultrasonic cleaner on the strength of your observations.
      One thing I’m as yet unsure of; do you have a method for reproducing beading? There’s clearly a use for such here.

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