The last two nights I have been working on the two 0-6-0s from earlier.
Last night, I attached the rods to the J39, having tested the mechanism with the temporary nylon “crankpin bosses”. Once satisfied with the running qualities I soldered the bosses on. Whilst I appreciate that for many this will be teaching you to suck eggs, I’m hoping that novices do visit the blog and learn something useful from time to time.
Anyway, this is my method for ensuring that the rod doesn’t get bunged up with solder when you’re securing the boss. Nothing more than a humble Rizla paper. I don’t smoke but these useful papers have lasted me years.
If you do 5″ gauge, there’s great big ones about 6″ long too but they only seem to sell them in shops with Bob Marley posters on the walls.
How come so many Rastafarians and New Age folks are so into very large scale model engineering?
Once the rods were soldered in place, I cropped the crankpins down an dressed the bosses with a small hand file to give the result shown.
That was last night so tonight I tackled the J27. Having tested the motor and found it satisfactory, I installed it in the drive carriage, threaded through and coupled up the centre (driving) axle and attached the final drive gear.
Once again this tested OK so it was time to temporarily set the rods up and test the whole six coupled set-up.
You can see the temporary nylon retainers I mentioned before.
The mechanism is geared at 54:1 and with the motor being the powerful 1424 can from Mashima, it really does seem to ‘walk the walk’.
By the time the mechanism completed its first run in, it was starting to turn in the 1.5 – 1.8v range, drawing no more than 0.06A.
Not a bad start.
Satisfied so far, I now need to do a part dismantle so that the frames can be primed and painted. Once it’s all painted and permanently assembled, I’ll attach the brake gear, pickups (😕) and start running the whole assembly in on the rollers.
I will also need to crop the motor shaft too, so that it can be accommodated in the loco’s firebox.
Top tip though. Wait until these motors are tested and found to be satisfactory before you cut the shaft.
The reason for this is, I suppose, a warranty issue; the makers will not accept a defective motor as a return if the shaft is cut so make sure it works before the piercing saw goes into action or you’ll have as much chance of getting a refund as David Mellor has of getting a taxi!